Setting Up a New Shower Unit
An effective shower installation requires careful preparation and a lot of work. Most of the times, you will need to do three kinds of tasks: framing walls, installing the pipes, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you should decide on the plumbing maintenance tips type of shower that you wish to set up. It is essential to establish whether the chosen shower can handling specific systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower units nowadays are developed to be versatile to various water pressures (such as saved hot water and cold mains).
It is also essential to consider the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed via the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and incredibly basic to install. Nevertheless, although the hose pipe connection is easy, it is quickly removed. Additionally, it is bothersome to change the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The tube and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a really inexpensive choice and no additional pipes is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with troublesome temperature control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water supplies are linked to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the formerly mentioned mixers. They also need additional pipes of cold and hot supply of water pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall system and the cold and hot water materials are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the greatest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes practical temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most expensive of the various mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system including a powerful electrical pump that is capable of modifying both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated up straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is essential to note that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit enables the temperature level and pressure to be changed via a knob. Models with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they stay unaffected by other taps somewhere else in use within the household. A significant downside of electrical showers is that the control knob just allows for the alternative of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a higher pressure. This is bothersome in the winter when the spray is often weak and the mains water is colder. However, this problem is dealt with in some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Before beginning, it is suggested to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. Furthermore, the drain system to remove the drainage will need to be prepared. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will likewise need to be considered if an instantaneous or electric shower system is being installed.
Use the instruction guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water system. In order to safeguard the pipes, they need to be given a water resistant covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some might require tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have been made (there must be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a higher height (sometimes as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support beneath it-- potentially composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this option, the main and circulation pipelines will likewise need to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it must be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to utilize 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding preserve maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Furthermore, by minimising making use of elbows for pipe corners, you can reduce the resistance in the flow of the supply of water. You can accomplish this by flexing the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Violating or neglecting local code restrictions.
# Using pipelines that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipe substance at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.
# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall remains in place.
# Not correctly lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outdoors hose pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.